You all probably thought I stopped beading. Well, I thought so too but I've been recently re-inspired. The cabochons were purchased at BeadFest last year and the eyeball was bought at the Laura McCabe class I took last year.
Thursday, August 15, 2013
Eyeball!
You all probably thought I stopped beading. Well, I thought so too but I've been recently re-inspired. The cabochons were purchased at BeadFest last year and the eyeball was bought at the Laura McCabe class I took last year.
Wednesday, July 31, 2013
WIP Wednesday - another quilt top!
Yup, right as I finish one, I've already got another one going! It all started when I had seen the Dizzy Spell over at the Lella Boutique blog. It's a simple enough concept of strips into squares and all I really needed were the fabric requirements. The yardage for the yellow fabric that is the binding theme through the entire quilt was one I had calculated out ahead of time. I made a good guess for yardage for the rest of the fabric and after I was through cutting and sewing, I barely have any scraps left.
Today, I'm off to the quilt shop to see about border, backing, and a binding fabric for this. I think I'm going to actually try to quilt this at home, so that should be an interesting adventure!
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
Finished! - Charming Stars Quilt
I finished my quilt! This is the Charming Stars Quilt, instructions from Moda Bake Shop. The original instructions called for 4 x 4 squares of the star blocks. I recalculated everything for a 5x5 block queen sized quilt. Maths, I can do it!
I pieced the top together and sent it out to be quilted by a local long arm quilter. You saw in my last post when it came back and then I started working on binding the quilt with some beads.
I'm also very happy with how that turned out. You don't notice the beads as you sleep under under the quilt though I do wonder if the beads help to stiffen up the edge. We'll see when I get the next quilt put together.
I am very happy with this AND it's a much lighter blanket than the one I had on my bed so it keeps me cold and from having nightmares when I start to over heat.
Wednesday, July 03, 2013
Charm Stars Quilt on the Home Stretch
Yesterday, I got my Charm Stars Quilt back from the long armer and I am SO EXCITED!
The quilting pattern is one of dragonflies. It's not a very dense quilting pattern since I didn't want it to detract from the piece fabric on the front side. You can see the dragonflies better on the back side.
In preparation for its homecoming, I sewed the strips of fabric I needed for the binding. When I got it home, I got ride to work in attaching the binding to the edge. My huge bead stash came in handy and I was able to find the beads I wanted to use on the edging. In binding off the baby quilt, I found the needle motion very similar to that of the back stitch in bead embroidery. I knew that on this one, I wanted to attach a row of beads to the edge. I wanted hot pink beads to bring out the few pieces of pink in the fabric.
So far, the beads don't stick out so I'm hoping that when all is said and done and I'm under this blanket every night that the beads don't make this blanket uncomfortable.
The quilting pattern is one of dragonflies. It's not a very dense quilting pattern since I didn't want it to detract from the piece fabric on the front side. You can see the dragonflies better on the back side.
In preparation for its homecoming, I sewed the strips of fabric I needed for the binding. When I got it home, I got ride to work in attaching the binding to the edge. My huge bead stash came in handy and I was able to find the beads I wanted to use on the edging. In binding off the baby quilt, I found the needle motion very similar to that of the back stitch in bead embroidery. I knew that on this one, I wanted to attach a row of beads to the edge. I wanted hot pink beads to bring out the few pieces of pink in the fabric.
So far, the beads don't stick out so I'm hoping that when all is said and done and I'm under this blanket every night that the beads don't make this blanket uncomfortable.
Monday, May 27, 2013
Hex bags on Etsy
There's been a slight rearranging of things to the right hand side there. You'll notice a new etsy shop. I decided to open sewJudyBags for the various bags I've been making. So, there's some shopping to be done if you don't want to make your own!
I look at it as a sewing adventure as try to create a good knitting bag or a good tote bag. Sometimes, it's so hard to find the perfect bag for my uses!
I look at it as a sewing adventure as try to create a good knitting bag or a good tote bag. Sometimes, it's so hard to find the perfect bag for my uses!
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Let's finish that hex bag!
Okay, I'm back with the end of the hex bag instructions. As I'm working my way through it, I realized that for this size, you can actually make a bag out of 2 fat quarters of the exterior fabric and 2 fat quarters of the interior fabric. So, you can have fun picking out fat quarters!
I did make one slight change between the last post and this. I opted to not include the instructions for the bag handles.
For the refresher:
Remember the 1/2 inch seam allowance!
For the exterior, start by ironing on the fusible quilted backing to your exterior piece. Then, with right sides together, pin the sides and the long bottom. Back stitch at the start and end, and sew along the three sides.
As with the interior, press the corner seams flat so that you match up the seams. Check the inside of the bag to make sure the seams are meeting and pin the outside along the seam. You can check both sides to make sure the pins are entering and exiting along the seam. Measure in from the very corner 2 inches and draw a line perpendicular to the seam. This line should be about 3 inches long. Now, sew along the line. It is very important to backstitch here. Repeat on the other side.
Trim the fabric to 1/4 inch from the seam. Turn the bag exterior right side out.
For the bag bottom, cut from the plastic mesh a piece that is 3 inches by 10 inches. To double check this measurement, measure along the seams at the bottom of the bag. You may need to trim the mesh down a little more. You just want it to fit the bottom and lie flat. I like to pin this to the bottom with safety pins while I install the feet to make sure it doesn't move.
To mark the location of the feet, I measure in 3/4 of an inch from the long side and 1.5 inches down from the short side and mark the fabric. I will mark it with a pen or a sharpie because you're going to be making an incision right through the marking and the feet will end up covering the ink.
Using your seam rippers, make a 1/4 inch incision for each bag foot. Depending on the size of the square of the mesh, you may also have to cut the mesh slightly for the bag feet to fit through the mesh.
Insert the feet from the bottom to the inside of the bag. You may need to use plyers to slightly separate the two prongs. Once there is enough of a separation, use your hands and bend the prongs down. Do this for all of the feet. The bag feet are now holding together your plastic mesh and the fabric.
When all the feet are installed, the inside of the bag should look like this:
The bottom exterior looks like this:
And now for the magical last steps
The exterior piece is right side out. The interior piece is wrong side out. Place the exterior piece inside the interior piece so that right sides are facing each other. Start by matching and pinning the seams. Once the seams are pinned, pin around the sides.
Sew around the top edge of the bag with your 1/2 inch seam allowance, being careful at the seams. You can backstitch at the start and end, or stitch straight through while making sure that the first and last stitches overlap and lock. You want these stitches to be locked in place. Trim your threads.
Remember, the bottom of the interior lining is open. Reach your hand through and pull the bag exterior out.
Seat the interior inside the exterior. Press the top seams and topstitch around the edge. Try to stitch as close to the edge as possible, while catching all layers of fabric. Be careful at the side seams so that you don't end up introducing any pleats.
Now, to finish off the sewing, pull the interior back out. Press a half inch seam allowance into the two open sides. Pin the gap together, matching the folds and top stitch the bottom closed, remember to back stitch at the start and end.
If the hex frame is fully closed, and the screws are in, you'll need to remove the screws first. The easiest way I've found to insert and remove the screws is to hold the frame in the open position so that the two sides are lying in a flat straight line. Sometimes, a third hand is useful here. Once it is open, you can push the screw in or out.
Once you have the frame disassembled, slide each frame piece through the frame casing. I like to lead with the side with one hole.
Hold the end open and put the pin in. Repeat on the other side.
And now, the bag is done!!!
I hope you had fun with this tutorial and were successful in your bag making attempt. I've shown you my thought process in the pattern drafting and how the bag was created so you can use different sized frame and make different sized bags based on this basic concept.
I did make one slight change between the last post and this. I opted to not include the instructions for the bag handles.
For the refresher:
- The materials list is at the bottom of this post:
- Pattern drafting is here
- Cutting the fabric and making the bag interior is here
Remember the 1/2 inch seam allowance!
For the exterior, start by ironing on the fusible quilted backing to your exterior piece. Then, with right sides together, pin the sides and the long bottom. Back stitch at the start and end, and sew along the three sides.
As with the interior, press the corner seams flat so that you match up the seams. Check the inside of the bag to make sure the seams are meeting and pin the outside along the seam. You can check both sides to make sure the pins are entering and exiting along the seam. Measure in from the very corner 2 inches and draw a line perpendicular to the seam. This line should be about 3 inches long. Now, sew along the line. It is very important to backstitch here. Repeat on the other side.
Trim the fabric to 1/4 inch from the seam. Turn the bag exterior right side out.
For the bag bottom, cut from the plastic mesh a piece that is 3 inches by 10 inches. To double check this measurement, measure along the seams at the bottom of the bag. You may need to trim the mesh down a little more. You just want it to fit the bottom and lie flat. I like to pin this to the bottom with safety pins while I install the feet to make sure it doesn't move.
To mark the location of the feet, I measure in 3/4 of an inch from the long side and 1.5 inches down from the short side and mark the fabric. I will mark it with a pen or a sharpie because you're going to be making an incision right through the marking and the feet will end up covering the ink.
Using your seam rippers, make a 1/4 inch incision for each bag foot. Depending on the size of the square of the mesh, you may also have to cut the mesh slightly for the bag feet to fit through the mesh.
Insert the feet from the bottom to the inside of the bag. You may need to use plyers to slightly separate the two prongs. Once there is enough of a separation, use your hands and bend the prongs down. Do this for all of the feet. The bag feet are now holding together your plastic mesh and the fabric.
When all the feet are installed, the inside of the bag should look like this:
The bottom exterior looks like this:
And now for the magical last steps
The exterior piece is right side out. The interior piece is wrong side out. Place the exterior piece inside the interior piece so that right sides are facing each other. Start by matching and pinning the seams. Once the seams are pinned, pin around the sides.
Remember, the bottom of the interior lining is open. Reach your hand through and pull the bag exterior out.
Seat the interior inside the exterior. Press the top seams and topstitch around the edge. Try to stitch as close to the edge as possible, while catching all layers of fabric. Be careful at the side seams so that you don't end up introducing any pleats.
If the hex frame is fully closed, and the screws are in, you'll need to remove the screws first. The easiest way I've found to insert and remove the screws is to hold the frame in the open position so that the two sides are lying in a flat straight line. Sometimes, a third hand is useful here. Once it is open, you can push the screw in or out.
Once you have the frame disassembled, slide each frame piece through the frame casing. I like to lead with the side with one hole.
Hold the end open and put the pin in. Repeat on the other side.
And now, the bag is done!!!
I hope you had fun with this tutorial and were successful in your bag making attempt. I've shown you my thought process in the pattern drafting and how the bag was created so you can use different sized frame and make different sized bags based on this basic concept.
Friday, May 24, 2013
FO Friday - Heartbroken Valentine
I do love my spinning progression pictures.
This fiber is a Bullseye Bump from Loop! It's a piece of roving in a long color gradient so you get some really long stretches of color. The colorway is named "Moody Valentine".
It starts from a dark purple and transitions to grey and then white, then pink and finally black.
I navojo plied the yarn and ended up atih 365 yards of something close to worsted weight.
The pattern is called "Fragile Heart" and so I decided to call this project "Heartbroken Valentine". The shawl is knit from the center out with increases on every row at the sides. With each section of the pattern, you move up a needle size so interchangeable needles come in handy here.
This fiber is a Bullseye Bump from Loop! It's a piece of roving in a long color gradient so you get some really long stretches of color. The colorway is named "Moody Valentine".
It starts from a dark purple and transitions to grey and then white, then pink and finally black.
I navojo plied the yarn and ended up atih 365 yards of something close to worsted weight.
The pattern is called "Fragile Heart" and so I decided to call this project "Heartbroken Valentine". The shawl is knit from the center out with increases on every row at the sides. With each section of the pattern, you move up a needle size so interchangeable needles come in handy here.
Friday, May 10, 2013
FO Friday - fast knits and not so fast knits!
I actually finished this Honey Cowl a couple of months ago. I just never got around to taking a picture. The Honey Cowl usually calls for a DK weight yarn. I used bulky. I cast on 250 stitches to start. Let me just say, this thing is HUGE! It can hang from my neck down to my knees!
Next up is Henslowe.
It's a little shawlette that fits just around my neck. It was such a quick knit that I started it last Thursday and finished it up on Wednesday. I used 1 skein of MadelineTosh tosh merino light in the Tomato color. There was something about this project had me obsessively knitting it. Otherwise, I don't think I would have finished it so quickly. I think I will make another one but much much bigger.
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
WIP Wednesday - a lull in the creating
I've been in something of a funk. I haven't knitting much, haven't sewn much. Haven't don't all that much craft-wise. Here are a couple of recently worked on projects though.
My watermelon sock are coming along. I'm at the heel turn and I'm stuck trying to decide if I want to keep in the watermelon yarn for the heel or if I want to switch to black and do something like an after thought heel. Decisions.
This is a bunch of hexi blocks. I plan on making a placemat and practicing some free motion quilting on the piece.
My watermelon sock are coming along. I'm at the heel turn and I'm stuck trying to decide if I want to keep in the watermelon yarn for the heel or if I want to switch to black and do something like an after thought heel. Decisions.
This is a bunch of hexi blocks. I plan on making a placemat and practicing some free motion quilting on the piece.
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
WIP Wednesday - window farm
This counts as a WIP, right? It's a work in progress that will go on forever and I'm actually not done yet with the build out.
I'm aiming for four columns in that window with 1 reservoir bottle and 4 plant bottles per column. What do I have in there?
Left column (top to bottom): basil (rooting for a dirt garden), parsley (incubating for a dirt garden), oregano and a currant tomato plant, sage
Middle column: Thai basil, scallions (from the supermarket!), basil, parsley - this is my fully grown column
Right column: Rocky Top Lettuce, collard greens, spinach
The far right column are still baby plants so I have water with a bare minimum of a nutrient solution going through them. The left and middle columns will have full on nutrient solution at the "aggressive growth" mix flowing through so I'm curious to see how quickly the plants grow. The basil leaves are already bigger than any I've ever seen before.
I keep learning as these plants grow.
Some close ups for you.
I'm excited to see some of the curly leaves start to come out for the parsley. It means that the roots are taking!
Thai basil! Leaves! I'm getting more leaves!
These little stalks of basil are actually cuttings from the big basil plant in the middle column. It's growing so happily that I'm trying to root stalks as the big plant grows so I can grow lots and lots of basil.
The oregano and the tomato are sharing a home because I don't have enough bottles for them all yet. I figured the oregano is still small and not taking up much space. It's exciting to watch the tomato grow.
Finally, collard greens. I plan on keeping one plant in the window farm and the others will go into my friend's garden. I have them in here to incubate and grow a little faster.
I'm aiming for four columns in that window with 1 reservoir bottle and 4 plant bottles per column. What do I have in there?
Left column (top to bottom): basil (rooting for a dirt garden), parsley (incubating for a dirt garden), oregano and a currant tomato plant, sage
Middle column: Thai basil, scallions (from the supermarket!), basil, parsley - this is my fully grown column
Right column: Rocky Top Lettuce, collard greens, spinach
The far right column are still baby plants so I have water with a bare minimum of a nutrient solution going through them. The left and middle columns will have full on nutrient solution at the "aggressive growth" mix flowing through so I'm curious to see how quickly the plants grow. The basil leaves are already bigger than any I've ever seen before.
I keep learning as these plants grow.
Some close ups for you.
Sage. I love looking at their little fuzzy leaves!
Sunday, April 07, 2013
Hex Bag - Fabric pieces and the bag interior
Brief refresher
Well, now you have your pattern drawn and cut out. The straight side that you labelled for the Fold Line, fold your fabric in half and place that side along the fold. Pin it down and cut around the other sides. Cut:
Frame casing
For each frame casing piece, make sure you have the interfacing ironed on to the bag.
Fold in half an inch from both short sides and one of the long sides.
Cut a little notch out of the corners of the fabric where it folds double to decrease the bulk.
Iron, press, make it all hold.
Top stitch the short sides of each frame casing. Make sure to back stitch.
Make sure you have a piece of interfacing ironed and fused to the back of each interior piece. For each interior piece, center the frame casing on the top of the bag top edge, matching the edges. Right sides of both pieces facing up. Pin.
Top stitch the frame casing to the interior along the long folded edge of the frame casing.
Pocket Placement
One pocket piece on each interior piece. The unsewn long edge of the pocket 2.5 inches from the bottom of the interior. Center the pocket from the sides. Pin and top stitch around the sides and bottom. Again, back stitch and pivot the corners!
For a divided pocket, figure out where you want the divide placed and you can either mark it with a fabric pencil that will disappear or, I taped a piece of painter's tape 1/4 of an inch away and used it as a guide for my presser foot.
Putting the inside together
The bottom of the bag is the long side of the trapezoid. Place the right sides together of your interior pieces and pin. Mark the center 8 inches of the bottom of the bag. DO NOT SEW THESE 8 INCHES. This is how we will turn the bag right side out after we sew it to the exterior. Sew each of the sides, pivot at the corner, and sew to where you've marked. BACKSTITCH! It is very important to backstitch on the bag bottom because you don't want the stitches to come loose as you're working with it.
For each corner, flatten the seams open, you will have a hard time ironing but you can certainly give it a try. Flatten each corner and match the seams. Pin through both seams of the side and bottom, this will help to keep them matched. Measure 2 inches along the seam in from the corner. Draw a line perpendicular to the seam.
Sew along this line and backstitch! Trim the corner off, 1/4 inch from the seam, we don't want a lot of bulk here. Do this for both corners and then you can see the form!
- The materials list is at the bottom of this post:
- Pattern drafting is here
Well, now you have your pattern drawn and cut out. The straight side that you labelled for the Fold Line, fold your fabric in half and place that side along the fold. Pin it down and cut around the other sides. Cut:
- 2 pieces from the exterior fabric
- 2 pieces from the interior fabric
- 4 pieces from the medium weight interfacing
From your remaining interior fabric, cut:
- 4 pieces 5 inches by 8 inches for the interior pockets
- 2 pieces 9.5 inches by 2 inches for the frame casing - If you don't trust your top stitching skills, you may want to make it 2.25 inches.
Also cut 2 pieces of interfacing 9.5 inches by 2 inches. Iron this to the back of the interior fabric for the frame casing.
If you want to make straps for the bag, cut from the fabric of your choice:
If you want to make straps for the bag, cut from the fabric of your choice:
- 2 pieces 21 inches by 4 inches
- 4 pieces 4.5 inches by 4 inches
The straps are designed for a square ring that is 1 inch long on the inside of the ring. The straps are folded the long into 4 parts. If the interior of your ring measures something else, take that measurement and multiply it by 4 to get the required width.
We start with everything that is being sewn to the interior of the bag.
Let's Get Started - Pockets!
Remember our .5 inch seam allowance!
Take two of the pocket pieces and pin them right sides together. Make sure to backstitch at the start and end to lock in the thread. Pivot and turn at the corners. Starting 1.5 inches from the end of one of the longer ends, stitch to .5 inches from the end, turn and stitch through the short side, then the long side, then the next short side. Pivot and turn and stitch another inch. Cut your thread. Trim the corners. In the picture below, I sewed with a white thread that blends into the fabric. I've drawn in the line you want to sew in grey.
Turn pocket right side out, making sure to push the corners out, and iron the sewn edges. Fold in the the unsewn edge and press flat. Top stitch the sewn long side, making sure to back stitch at the start and end. This is the first pocket. Repeat for the second pocket.
Frame casing
For each frame casing piece, make sure you have the interfacing ironed on to the bag.
Fold in half an inch from both short sides and one of the long sides.
Cut a little notch out of the corners of the fabric where it folds double to decrease the bulk.
Make sure you have a piece of interfacing ironed and fused to the back of each interior piece. For each interior piece, center the frame casing on the top of the bag top edge, matching the edges. Right sides of both pieces facing up. Pin.
Top stitch the frame casing to the interior along the long folded edge of the frame casing.
One pocket piece on each interior piece. The unsewn long edge of the pocket 2.5 inches from the bottom of the interior. Center the pocket from the sides. Pin and top stitch around the sides and bottom. Again, back stitch and pivot the corners!
For a divided pocket, figure out where you want the divide placed and you can either mark it with a fabric pencil that will disappear or, I taped a piece of painter's tape 1/4 of an inch away and used it as a guide for my presser foot.
Putting the inside together
The bottom of the bag is the long side of the trapezoid. Place the right sides together of your interior pieces and pin. Mark the center 8 inches of the bottom of the bag. DO NOT SEW THESE 8 INCHES. This is how we will turn the bag right side out after we sew it to the exterior. Sew each of the sides, pivot at the corner, and sew to where you've marked. BACKSTITCH! It is very important to backstitch on the bag bottom because you don't want the stitches to come loose as you're working with it.
For each corner, flatten the seams open, you will have a hard time ironing but you can certainly give it a try. Flatten each corner and match the seams. Pin through both seams of the side and bottom, this will help to keep them matched. Measure 2 inches along the seam in from the corner. Draw a line perpendicular to the seam.
Sew along this line and backstitch! Trim the corner off, 1/4 inch from the seam, we don't want a lot of bulk here. Do this for both corners and then you can see the form!
Monday, April 01, 2013
Hex Purse Tutorial - Materials & Pattern Drafting
This is going to be the first in a series of posts on how I made my little hex frame purses. I don't want to put it all into one BIG blog post because you'll be reading forever. Instead, I plan to present it in sections
1. Bag template design
2. Fabric pieces, pockets, interior
3. Exterior and putting the bag together
I gave you the materials list here
Step 1. Line up two of the edges on the rotary cutter mat. My left and bottom edges are lined up and I measure from the left edge. Start by drawing a line across the top of the paper. This is the top of the pattern.
Step 2. Draw a line 5.25 inches from the left edge of the paper. This is the width at the top of the bag.
Step 3. Next draw a line 7.25 inches from the left edge of the paper (or 2 inches to the right of the first line). This width represents the full width of the bag plus the side width and seam allowance at the finished bottom of the bag.
Step 4. Draw the next line 9 inches down from the top edge you drew. This is about where the finished bottom will fall.
Step 5. The next line is drawn 2 inches down from the last line. The space between these two lines will the bottom of your bag, including seam allowance.
Step 6. The next line you draw, well, please refer to the picture below. The two points you are trying to connect are the opposite corners of the rectangle created in steps 1 through 4 but extend it through to the line drawn in step 5. This is the side of your pattern.
Step 7. Mark the left side as the fold line for the fabric. You'll also want to write in the number of pieces to cut from this template. You'll want 2 from the exterior fabric, 2 from the interior fabric.You'll also cut 4 from your interfacing. Also note that you have 1/2" seam allowance.
Step 8. Cut out this trapezoid shape. This is your template.
1. Bag template design
2. Fabric pieces, pockets, interior
3. Exterior and putting the bag together
I gave you the materials list here
Design Thoughts
Before I get into the pattern drawing, I wanted to explain a few things.
- I chose to use a 1/2" seam allowance. You can use whatever you want. Just note that, I'm using a 1/2" seam allowance throughout this series and in my pattern. This pattern is written with a 1/2" seam allowance built in. If you choose to use something else, you'll need to make some alterations.
- The 9" hex frame measured out to about 9.25" at the widest points so that is the measurement I used. With the hex frame, the top of the bag lays flat and I didn't want there to be too much space around the hex frame so I aimed for a finished measurement of 9.5" at the top. If you choose a different sized hex frame, you can use this idea as a jumping off point in designing your own bag.
- Just a reminder, the finished bag measures 9.5 inches across the top, is 6 inches tall. The bottom measures 10 inches long by 3.25 inches wide.
Marking out my pattern
I started with a piece of 8.5" x 11" piece of paper. My printer is next to my sewing area. You can use newsprint as well but make sure that you have at least one straight edge. Make the straight edge the fold edge.
Step 1. Line up two of the edges on the rotary cutter mat. My left and bottom edges are lined up and I measure from the left edge. Start by drawing a line across the top of the paper. This is the top of the pattern.
Step 2. Draw a line 5.25 inches from the left edge of the paper. This is the width at the top of the bag.
Step 3. Next draw a line 7.25 inches from the left edge of the paper (or 2 inches to the right of the first line). This width represents the full width of the bag plus the side width and seam allowance at the finished bottom of the bag.
Step 4. Draw the next line 9 inches down from the top edge you drew. This is about where the finished bottom will fall.
Step 5. The next line is drawn 2 inches down from the last line. The space between these two lines will the bottom of your bag, including seam allowance.
Step 6. The next line you draw, well, please refer to the picture below. The two points you are trying to connect are the opposite corners of the rectangle created in steps 1 through 4 but extend it through to the line drawn in step 5. This is the side of your pattern.
Step 7. Mark the left side as the fold line for the fabric. You'll also want to write in the number of pieces to cut from this template. You'll want 2 from the exterior fabric, 2 from the interior fabric.You'll also cut 4 from your interfacing. Also note that you have 1/2" seam allowance.
Step 8. Cut out this trapezoid shape. This is your template.
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